I stepped off the plane in Lome, Togo after traveling for around twenty-four hours. As I approached the airport door, a Togolaise Peace Corps staffperson with kind eyes led me by hand into a cramped but cool room where fellow volunteers were gathering. The airport was bustling with activity at 7 pm and several travelers inquired, "Vous êtes Corps de la Paix?" and welcomed us. My autonomy seemed to be instantly revoked as my baggage and passport were taken by staff who herded me into a Landrover and drove me to my destination.
My first few nights in Lome were spent at a Guest House with unexpected luxuries such as a cold trinkle of water also known as a shower, and a toilet in my room. I woke up in a fit of laughter because the chorus of roosters that roam the street had incredibly jolting "cockadoodle-doos"at 5:45 am, only minutes before my alarm was set to ring. Walking the sandy streets of Lome, I am met by small children exclaiming, "Yovo!" which means, "White Person!", and many greetings by knowing strangers. The beach is only several blocks from the guest house, and I have been lulled to sleep by the waves. There is a bar on the beach and it has become rapidly apparent that the drinking culture in Togo rivals that of Belgium. The beach is beautiful and inviting but unfit for swimming. The waves are taunting me to be conquered by a surfboard, a request that will likely never be met.
Togo has thus far has surpassed many of my expectations and come far from meeting others. I am so grateful for the cool breeze, the delicious food, the optomistic staff and fellow volunteers, forgiving smiles of Togolaise as I confidently chime spout my far from perfect French, the flora and fauna that have no order, the absence of gettingtoknowyou games and the anticipation of living life without the consumption of many of the world's precious resources. However, I thought that development in the capitol would surpass my expectations but it is clear already that Togo is grossly underdeveloped.
Training so far has been very technical, dealing with malaria, taking a sponge shower, choosing a bike and taking an oral French exam. I'll be moving into a host family's home tonight, jumping into a life I can't even start to imagine. I will be eating three meals a day with the family and sleeping in their house. Training is in Tsivie, about 30 K from Lome. I am not nervous but only determined to make a positive impression on my family. I can't begin to comprehend the enormity of the challenge that I've seemed to wander into, but I have stayed calm and confident by focusing on one day at a time. Like never before, my past experiences of backpacking and traveling ensemble et seul have alleviated many potential shocks of this experience and allowed me to only focus on the most extreme adaptions that must be made.
Send some fan mail this way...I may not have internet for a long time after this post!
Avec l'amour, Meghan