Monday, November 9, 2009

Bonne Arrivée

A wonderful man has left this earth. I know this because of the extravagance of the party his death warranted. A tent was constructed to cover the street in front of my host family’s house for half a block and the entire street was shut off. Hundreds of chairs were set up to cover ground. The set up occurred during the day. The funeral, in fact, did not commence until after dark. I arose to the sound of loud gospel music, Cowbell, children wailing, adults crying and preaching on a highly advanced PA system at around 12:30 a.m. The festivities occurred until 5:00 am, or dawn. This was repeated for two nights in a row, and I had the “privilege” of listening to the entire production loud and clear from my bed. The Togolese people that I’ve talked to about funerals say that when a child dies, the funeral is very somber but when an old person dies it is a celebration of the person’s life and can be quite jovial. I tried to keep my annoyance of the « bruit » to myself as host Maman told me she knew the gentleman who passed very well.

A beautiful child has entered this earth. My host Maman went to the capitol to have her third child, a perfect little boy. She had some complications with the pregnancy, and had to have a cesarean section. I was worried about her because I know c-sections are risky anywhere and my host dad told me she could have died. I was interested to see the hospital she stayed at for about a week with her baby and her mother. It was a small clinic responsible only for delivering babies and there were nurses and doctors constantly circulating checking on the patients. It seemed to be first-rate care here in Togo and I don’t think all Togolese women have the resources to receive this kind of care. Maman finally came home with the baby and we’ve had a constant parade of visitors to « saluer » the family and greet the baby. Grandmaman also has come to stay at the house and despite her age has taken on many tasks to care for the baby, including washing him, which makes him squeal at the top of his tiny lungs. Maman’s identical twin sister also came to stay with us for a while, and she went to get her hair done exactly like Maman making it very difficult to tell them apart!

I know I will miss my host family when I move to my post. I am currently on a one-week post visit in the ville I will be living in for my service, and I miss them already! I can’t disclose the exact location online but those of you itching to know can just asking me. I’m in the Centrale region in a larger town. I have a ridiculously luxurious house, but it hasn’t been lived in for a while by people but only by plenty of arachnid friends. My plan to transform my little piece of Togolese soil into a petite palace is definitely HGTV worthy. I live by myself in the compound so basically anything goes so I will be building a garden, buying a chicken for fresh eggs getting a kittenand eventually be inheriting a guard dog. Everything is built to order here in Togo, so I’ll be designing and commissioning my own furniture and curtains as well as painting all the walls. I will have a comfortable guest room so now those of you reading this blog can come experience Togolese life first-hand!

My goal this week is to meet the people I will be collaborating with as the authorities and neighbors. I will initially be working with an NGO, which provides opportunities for students to attend camps to utilize their creativity including drama, music and radio broadcasting. I will be working with the radio, as the NGO has a public radio station on which I can do « sensibilisations » on issues surrounding girl’s empowerment. Besides the initial definite project, I will be working with the other 5+ NGOs in the town that work with youth development and specifically girl’s empowerment as well as collaborating with the Health volunteer in my town and the Natural Resource Management volunteer only 7k away. Before coming to Togo, I was concerned about not having enough work to do but now I am sure I have a plethora of opportunities and will be working against the clock. I feel very lucky for my post because I’m in the middle of the action here in Togo and I can get coffee and bread!